Jeep Strokers

Here's my updated list, with prices I've got so far, and excluding what I already have and what I may have forgotten. I'm not sure yet about prices for valves springs and hardware, I think the price for springs is for EACH, and price for hardware is for 12... but I need to confirm with my seller. Same thing for valve seals.

What do you think? Is the Mopar heavy-duty oil pump a good choice? In the Mopar catalog, they have either this one, or a High-volume (P4529241) pump.

And I still need to figure about rod bolts and rockers, but the rockers (and pushrods) will wait until everything else is bought. Oh, and my father found some freeze plugs on Ebay for me.

Also, the distributor price is bugging me a little. I may carefully inspect the distributor that came with my block and reuse it.

P.S : Bear in mind that those are Canadian prices...

I might shop some of those on Ebay, but Customs charges can be a problem when ordering from the U.S.

• Pilot bearing : Mopar P53009180AB 26.10$
  camshaft : Mopar P4529229ab 219.00$
  or Comp Cams 68-232-4 286.95$ or complete kit Comp Cams K68-232-4 661.95$
  bearings camshaft 4,0L '93 Omix : 17422.03
  brass freeze plugs 4,0L
  Timing gears and chain : mopar P5249519 double roller 157.00$
  springs : P5249464 13.05$, retainers : P4452032 11.40$ , locks : P4529218 14.65$
  DRIVE BELT AC 53010314 70.20$
  Lifters : Mopar P4529220AB 13.05 $ or 4WD 17418.03 5.95 $
  Mopar HD oil pump: P4529227 83.05$
  valve seals : mopar P4529240 19.95$
  GASKET SET : P4529245 61.90$
  distributor '93 Distibuteur 56027028 306.00$
  rockers : (stamped steel) '93 or Yella terra (YT6328) or Harland Sharp S40196A
  CLUTCH KIT BORG WARNER 90342 225.00$
  ARP rod bolts 4,0L
  HESCO valve cover spacer?

Now that's what I call Jeep porn

Don't buy the k-kit. the retainers and keepers are for a 11/32 valve(amc 258). They won't fit the the 4.0 valve(8mm).

dwg86 wrote:Don't buy the k-kit. the retainers and keepers are for a 11/32 valve(amc 258). They won't fit the the 4.0 valve(8mm).

Allrighty, thanks. I think somebody already warned me about this, and I'm buying Mopar springs anyways.

Ok, now I have another concern. I picked a machinist among the few choices I had, and had a discussion with him. He told me that most used 4.0L heads are a bit "warped", and he'll probably have to shave 0.006-0.008" from it. Now if I think correctly, and I might not, the thickness that will be shaven from the head will have to be substracted from the thickness I have to shave from the block to get zero deck, correct?.....

Let's say that 0.030 has to be taken off the block to get zero deck, and that he shaves the head 0.005, will the block need to be decked 0.025" instead? Will this noticeably affect combustion chamber volume, compression ratio and quench? How do I make new calculations now?

Shaving the head will not affect the quench. The only thing to affect quench will be milling the block, and head gasket thickness. Quench is the distance from the top of the piston to the head surface.

Milling or shaving the head will increase to compression ration, because you are making the combustion chamber smaller. Mill just enough off the head to make straight.

The cheapest place to get Mopar springs is www.advanceautoparts.com $6.99 each. Go to online shopping and put the mopar spring part number P5249464 in the search. You will also need the retainers part number P4452032, $4.99 each. Free shipping on orders over $75.00.

I think what I need to figure, is how much will the combustion chamber volume will be reduced, and how high will it raise my SCR..? Quench will be whatever gasket thickness I choose if the block has zero deck clearance. Right?

Is is better to sacrifice a little quench with a thicker gasket to lower SCR, or still aim for 0.040-0.045" quench and have a little higher SCR?

Wow, I found this page while researhing about "CC'ing" :

http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/

Not really Jeep stroker related, but good articles, and in my field (aviation).

....Now back to my last question?

Exos wrote: Is is better to sacrifice a little quench with a thicker gasket to lower SCR, or still aim for 0.040-0.045" quench and have a little higher SCR?

You will be better off with a lower quench number than a lower compression ratio number. The decrease in quench will also decrease the chance for pinging.

About ARP bolts : could someone explain why the rods have to be resized when installing them? Is it worth it to buy ARP rod bolts?

Exos wrote:About ARP bolts : could someone explain why the rods have to be resized when installing them? Is it worth it to buy ARP rod bolts?

When the rod bolts are pressed out and new bolts are pressed in, the metal can expand more or less depending on the bolt.. If the rod was not resized with new bolts installed, this could cause the big end to become slightly out of round. This can eventually lead to rod bearing failure. With the longer stroke and higher piston speeds, rod bolt strength becomes more of an issue in a stroker motor. I have seen a handful of 4.0's throw rods that were run hard. I'd say with any stroker build play it safe! Upgrade the bolts, they're cheap insurance.

6TIME wrote:

Exos wrote:About ARP bolts : could someone explain why the rods have to be resized when installing them? Is it worth it to buy ARP rod bolts?

When the rod bolts are pressed out and new bolts are pressed in, the metal can expand more or less depending on the bolt.. If the rod was not resized with new bolts installed, this could cause the big end to become slightly out of round. This can eventually lead to rod bearing failure. With the longer stroke and higher piston speeds, rod bolt strength becomes more of an issue in a stroker motor. I have seen a handful of 4.0's throw rods that were run hard. I'd say with any stroker build play it safe! Upgrade the bolts, they're cheap insurance.

Thanks for that good explanation.

Now, some parts news : I received my Ford Racing 24lbs injectors yesterday, they look great although reconditioned, and I have two spares. I also ordered some Pioneer brass freeze plugs from Ebay, and after some problems with the seller, they are on their way. I also ordered the Mopar perf. gasket set locally, and should have it by next weekend, so I will be able to start the porting job on my head. I won't do the combustion chambers yet because I'll wait after the head is milled flat, and CC those. I'll be using old valves to work on the combustion chambers so I won't destroy the valve job.

I would do the P&P then have the head milled afterward.. in case you slip or change the finish on the gasket surfaces. But that is just me. Also, on the old valves grind the edges until it just covers the seat. What I did was put the valve in a drill and put the valve up against a belt sander and cut the valves down like that.

-Chris

Exos wrote:
bearings camshaft 4,0L '93 Omix : 17422.03

distributor '93 Distibuteur 56027028 306.00$ [/list]

dont buy Omix bearings, they are of cheap quality, go with clevite or KING (israeli top notch bearings).
you will regret this later if you but Omix cheap bearing, this recomandation go's to crankshaft bearing also, go with King or Clevite!

as for the distributor price, it is WAY OVERPRICED! i guess you can find it ALOT CHEAPER! you can consider getting a used one for 10-50$, it will work fine!

good luck!